At just 75 minutes, Laura Gabbert’s new documentary is needlessly hasty, leaving us with few ideas to fully chew on.
Growing up, my mom scolded me for eating food too fast. “Chew before you swallow, there’s no reason to rush,” and so on. She used to say that not giving myself the time to properly ingest a meal would make my body feel like it wasn’t, and that I’d only be hungry later on (she was right, of course).
I imagine she’d bring the same criticisms to “Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles,” a new documentary that questionably insists on shuffling through a buffet of cross-stitched topics with such haste that we’re left starved for substance. Pick your metaphor—”Cakes of Versailles,” from director Laura Gabbert, doesn’t do its due diligence in carefully measuring out individual ingredients, and so the whole thing comes out underbaked after 75 minutes. It’s hard to